My recent trip to Cyprus was booked on a whim, without any planning or proper research. I just booked the first online deal I found to a country that a) I hadn’t been to before (so I could count it towards my 30 before 30 challenge) and b) promised to be warmer than the UK.
I didn’t pre-plan any excursions or things I wanted to see or do while I was there, and I bought a little guide book of the island just the day before I flew out. Usually I would do a lot of research beforehand, make a list of “must-dos” and “must-sees” while I’m there, but in all honesty, given everything that’s happened recently and my move back down south, I didn’t have the mental strength to spend hours planning the trip, I just needed to escape reality. I needed to fly away…
Once I’d arrived and checked in to my hotel (the Kissos Hotel in Paphos), I began to relax and unwind. And then, continuing with the unplanned theme, my friend Emma messaged and asked if I’d like some company in Cyprus. “Of course,” I said. So she flew out and joined me for a few days – which was really good for me, both mentally and physically. I had someone to talk to about everything that had been happening with my ex-boyfriend, and I also had someone to share the massive meze platters with.
Staying in Paphos on the west coast, the beaches aren’t as sandy and the waters not as turquoise as those on the east coast (according to my trusty little guide book). So on Emma’s first day we hired a car and took a little road trip to Protaras, where we visited Fig Tree Bay.
After a few hours of lounging around on the shore, we thought we’d explore the area a bit more. Inspired by some gorgeous pics on Instagram, we decided to head to Profitis Ilias, a tiny church on the top of a steep cliff, which was a 10-minute walk from where we were.
Profitis Ilias, Protaras.
Just on the outskirts of the west of Protaras, set atop a rocky crag 115m above the rest of the town, is a tiny stone church – the Profitis Ilias.
Just how many steps there is up to the church is debated all over the internet, with some sources saying the ascend is 153 steps, with others say 158 and some report as few as 142. How many did we count? Emma got 138, while I was on about 162 by the time I lost count (and that was still a few feet from the top), so something wasn’t quite right here.
Anyway, folklore has it that if you count the same number of steps when you come down, then you’ll be lucky…
The steps up are steep, and at times very uneven, and there was no ramp for wheelchairs or buggies as far as we could see. So consider this before attempting the climb.
On the journey up, you’ll find some “wishing trees”. In the past, faithful church-goers would knot ribbons and handkerchiefs into the branches of the trees outside the chapel to strengthen their prayers. Nowadays tourists join in, leaving mementos of their visit. Some leave flowers, while others offer up trainers and bras. We left a couple of hair bobbles knotted together (so if you visit the church, be sure to look for them).
After we’d noticed the adorned trees at Profitis Ilias, we began to see trees with bits of ribbon tied in them everywhere we went on the island. It must be a Cypriot thing.
Once at the top, provided that you survive the climb, the views are simply magnificent. On a clear day you’ll be able to see right across to neighbouring town Famagusta – apparently you can see almost the entire south-eastern part of Cyprus in fact, including Varosha, a quarter in the city of Famagusta abandoned after the Turkish invasion.
But even on a cloudy day like we had, it was well worth the hike to the top. There are some amazing panoramic views of Protaras and the surrounding countryside.
And then on up to the church… The Profitis Ilias church that stands on the site today was rebuilt in the 1980s, but is a replica of the ancient Orthodox temple that stood here from the 14th Century.
The church is named after the prophet Elijah, who is mentioned in the Old Testament, as the prophet who is able to convince the Israelites to stop worshiping a false God called Baal. The church was built as a tribute to Elijah.
A lot of Cypriots are named after a saint like Michael, Peter, and some even Elias, after prophet Elijah (with derivatives like Elianna for girls). Every year there is a “naming day” when the church icon is carried outside so that people may pass under it to receive a blessing from the saint. It’s a time of celebration, and usually there is a traditional market in the streets below. The feast day of saint Elias falls on 20 July, so if you want to visit the Profitis Ilias church, this would be a great day to go.
You could even leave a little gift to the saint, on another “wishing tree” outside the chapel. This metal structure was covered with ribbons, bracelets, handkerchiefs and even some cards written to loved ones.
When we visited, at about 4.30pm, there was hardly anyone at the church, and the sun was beginning to set, which made the views spectacular. However, as there are not many attractions in Protaras, since it is just a small area in the Paralimni municipality, I can’t imagine a time when the church is ever really that busy.
The interior of the church is quite unique, with all the walls and ceiling decorated with vivid biblical images in a classic Orthodox-iconic style. The colours were rich and deep, and the wood dark and very shiny.
We didn’t spend too long at the church, it is only small and won’t take longer than 10 minutes to look around. Though with all the photos being snapped (and the rest we needed after climbing the steps), we were there for about 30 minutes in total.
I’d read online that at night the church is lit up – I bet that it looks really beautiful, but as darkness fell, and with a two-hour drive back to Paphos, we couldn’t hang around to see unfortunately.
It was well worth visiting Profitis Elias church for a chance to experience the spiritual, as well as historical, side of Protaras though. Even with all those steps up… Of which we both counted a different number coming down.
This sounds like it was the perfect break away from reality and a chance to get away, be somewhere warmer, explore, eat good food and spend some time with your friend. Cyprus looks like a stunning place and I often think going with the flow and not planning leads to the best adventures
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It really was Laura – a very much needed break x
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Looks amazing! i love the sound of the strange steps and wishing tree’s 🙂
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The wishing trees were so bright and colourful with their bits of ribbon flappingin the breeze x
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Wow what an amazing looking place to visit, I could imagine just spending so much time taking it all in if I was ever lucky enough to visit, especially the wishing tree that really intrigues me.
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It was a really beautiful place, the perfect spot to just chill out and relax 🙂 x
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Sometimes the best trips are those which aren’t overly thought out or planned. Beautiful stonework and excellent views too.
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I totally agree – impromptu trips are always fun, and I love just going with the flow x
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Trips on a whim are the best in my opinion! It seemed like you had an amazing time and great scenery
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You’re totally right – sometimes the best trips are those that aren’t planned at all! I love just jumping on a plane and heading off somewhere x
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I’ve never been to Cyprus, I love the photos you took, they are fantastic
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Thank you Hannah – they are all taken on a Samsung Galaxy S6, no fancy cameras here x
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I’ve never been to Cyprus but you have made it look really tempting here. I would definitely consider it in the future x
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Definitely consider it! It’s a beautiful island x
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I am glad that you had your friend Emma to help you through what you are going through now. My best friend is from Cyprus and we might be going there together this summer so that should be fun! x
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Thanks hun – yes it was great for Emma to come out and meet me, it really helped to have someone there to support me after everything that happened.
If you and your friend manage to get to Cyprus this summer, you’ll have a fabulous time – it’s such a beautiful country xx
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I am glad to hear that 🙂 I will be sure to let you know if I manage to visit. She is from Larnaca which is absolutely stunning from what I’ve heard x
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I didn’t venture to Larnaca, but the photos I’ve seen in my guide book look beautiful! I’m sure you’ll have the best time x
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I love the photos, they have a dreamy quality to them I really enjoy – I think the shape of the wishing tree is really interesting too.
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Thanks Emily – all my photos were taken on a Samsung Galaxy S6 phone 🙂 I think the lighting added to the dreaminess, the sun was beginning to set 🙂 x
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Stunning church and great photos! Sometimes unplanned trips can really be the best 🙂
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You’re so right Jemma! This unplanned trip was the best, I really needed the time to just chill out and relax, which is exactly what I got (minus all those stairs!) x
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A whim trip sounds amazing. I used to go to Paphos every year when I was younger and I’d love to go back and see what it’s like now x
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As I’m out of work at the moment, I’m trying to cram as much travel in as I can! Paphos was beautiful – you should definitely go back and see if it’s changed x
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Such stunning photos what an amazing looking place to visit. I love the look of the wishing tree and I’d so love to visit Cyprus.
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You should try and get there Joanna, it’s a gorgeous place – I guarantee you won’t be disappointed x
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Cyprus always has lovely weather. We’ve stayed in Paphos in November and it was gorgeous. That church is beautiful
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Yes, I’ve heard the weather is good all year round, so not surprised to hear that 🙂 x
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What a beautiful church. You are really making me want to go on holiday now – your pictures are beautiful.
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Thanks Dannii – that’s a lovely comment x
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Wow, the church is pretty amazing. Never seen this before on some blogs that I read. I would definitely go back and check this out. The church looks so serene.
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It’s a beautiful church – you should visit it if you ever travel to Cyprus Anosa x
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Firstly, fab that you travelled on a whim – so exciting! That church is just like something out of a story and the wishing tree is amazing I bet it felt magical!
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It really did Donna – a very magical place, especially with the sun setting across Protaras like that! x
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This church is absolutely gorgeous! Cyprus looks amazing!
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It is a beautiful church, and Cyprus was a great country to visit for a bit of rest and relaxation 🙂 x
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Oh I want to visit here! Looks like you had a fab trip and how lucky you and your friend could take an impromptu break x
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It was a beautiful place, very peaceful and relaxing (once we’d got to the top). Have you ever been to Cyprus Jenni? x
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I always wanted to go to Cyprus. It has many hidden gems. Church building is very nice
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You’re not wrong Madeeha – so many hidden gems in Cyprus! x
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You’re right about it being instagram friendly _ it is stunning.
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Isn’t it just Emma! x
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What a beautiful spot! I’ve always wanted to head to Cyprus x
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It’s absolutely gorgeous Stephanie – you’d love it x
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I’ve never been to Cyprus and it looks like a gorgeous country to visit. I love the idea of a booking a spontaneous trip though!
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If you ever get the opportunity to go Sally, definitely go! It’s a gorgeous country x
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Wow! Indeed some of these are truly postcard pictures! I love the feel of being in a fortess and this golden stone looks amazing.
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Ahhhh thanks Sona – it does feel like being on top of the world when you visit this church x
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Wow that view! It looks like you had a brilliant day. They do the same thing with the ribbons on trees on the Isle of Man, at fairy bridge.
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The view was spectacular, and we had a lovely day thanks 🙂 I didn’t know about the Fairy Bridge on the Isle of Man – thanks for the tip, I’ll check it out x
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Looks a beautiful place to visit, I love the idea of a wishing tree too
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It’s a gorgeous place Steph – very peaceful and relaxing x
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Beautiful photos, I visited Cyprus when I was younger and absolutely loved it there. I actually stayed in Protaras! xo
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Ahh that’s great Rachel – did you visit this church? x
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Cyprus looks amazing !! thanks for this share !! i will share more to visit this place 🙂
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Thank you so much, I appreciate that x
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I love the fact you travelled on a whim and just trusted to serendipity to be your guide. The pictures are amazing.
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Thanks Andrew! I’ve been doing a lot of spontaneous travel recently, as after Cyprus I headed to Mexico and also Jordan, completely unawares of what I might do or find when I got there. Sometimes the best trips are those that aren’t planned though! x
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Sometimes the very best and most enjoyable times are those that occur at the spur of the moment. The great thing is there is no stress to rush to see certain things at certain times and you are more relaxed to just enjoy the moment and time away. What a lovely find that church was. While I appreciate the climb up those stairs might not have been the easiest, your photos show it was worth it from the views as well as the beauty of the outside and inside of the church itself. Just lovely.
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This is soooo true Nicole! This trip to Cyprus was completely unplanned, and the finding of this church was purely by chance. You’re right though, it’s a lot more relaxed way of travelling 🙂 and thank you for your kind comments about my pictures – the ascend up those stairs was quite tough, but definitely worth it x
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It is so good to be spontaneous
And travel and explore.
I need to travel more, but don’t want to travel by myself.
Thanks for this
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Travelling solo isn’t for everyone, I know – but I really enjoy it, and I think it has made me a stronger, more independent person 🙂 maybe try it to a new city in your home country first, see how you get on? x
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Yes, I will one day.
Thanks
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You’re welcome x
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This is all so beautiful! I just came back from a trip I didn’t plan for either and it was such a breath of fresh air! My next trip will be a three month long stunt in Korea and even though I’m bookmarking things to see and places to go, I’m hoping to discover it as I go too. It’s just so refreshing and relaxing!
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I completely agree Elodie! Going with the flow and doing things at your own pace makes for a brilliant trip 🙂 I can’t wait to see and read about your adventures in Korea! x
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I love visiting old churches as they are normally filled with so much history. This one is no exception. I would love to see the view from the top as it looks stunning. I have actually been looking at vacation deals to Cyprus lately
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Ahhh really Carrie? You should definitely go, I’m sure you won’t be disappointed – Cyprus has sooooo many old churches to explore x
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That church is so beautiful! One of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen for sure. I also like the wishing tree, it’s very pretty and colorful and also such a nice idea.
Samantha | https://samanthacarraro.wordpress.com/
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Yeah, the wishing trees are a really cute idea – I’ve never seen them anywhere else actually, have you? x
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I think I’ve probably seen some of them in photos but I’ve never actually seen any myself. They’re so pretty!
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Beautiful..beautiful pictures! Cyprus is a beautiful country and you capture the beauty of Cyprus through your photograph very well. An unplanned trip could turn as the best trip!
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You’re so right Rose! Unplanned trips are usually the most fun 🙂 and thank you for the kind comments on my photos x
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It seems to be a nice hike up to the top to see the views of the city. and I loved the design of the Church specifically those brown stones walls. I am sure at night it looks more beautiful. 🙂
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I think you’re probably right Rahul, it’s just a shame we didn’t get to see it at night 😦 it is a beautiful church though! x
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I’ve been in Cyprus 1 year ago, but sadly I hadn’t visited Paphos. There’s so much to explore! I really loved it. Though it was kinda hot and couldn’t stay much outside (we were there in July). I hoped you enjoyed it!
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Yes, I’ve heard it can get very very hot in July and August, so I can understand why you might want to stay in the shade to keep cool! I really enjoyed my break there though, thankssss! x
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Lovely photos. The church looks so beautiful.
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Thank you! x
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Such an awesome place and I bet you had a great experience there and it really looks a beautiful photo.
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Thank you x
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What a lovely photos and I’m sure you had an awesome experience there and I want to go there someday.
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Hopefully you will get there yourself one day Kristine 🙂 x
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Loving those photos. The scenery looks gorgeous. I have travelled around parts of Cyprus and it is a beautiful place to visit.
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It really is Melanie! I hope to go back and see more of it soon x
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I love the sunny side of Cyprus at this time of the year and glad you got to escape a bit of UK drama weather while you also took time for yourself.
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Thank you Adeola – yes, it was so sunny there, and I managed to chill out and relax, which was the main thing! x
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Wow love the everyday normality of life photos in comparison with the dramatic flight shots and architecture
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Thanks xx
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The architecture of the church is quite splendid! Your pictures speak for itself how beautiful Cyprus is!
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Thanks Ana – it is a beautiful church, you must visit it some time if you get the chance x
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What a wonderful break! Stunning photos! It’s obvious you had a fantastic time there.
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Thank you Evelina – I had a lovely break away x
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It looks absolutely beautiful there. I’ve never been to Cypress but would love to go x
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Thank you! You should definitely go if you ever have the chance 🙂 x
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Wow what a stunning place to visit! Your photographs are just beautiful!
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Thanks so much Laura 🙂 x
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My dad lives just outside Paphos and it’s a beautiful place – hoping to go back and visit again soon
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Ahhh really – I’m so jealous of him! I’d love to live there, it’s so picturesque x
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I specially liked the view from the top of the city, it looks absolutely amazing! I hope I will have the chance to visit it someday !
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Becca, I used to know a few people from Cyprus and they would always tell me how gorgeous their little country is. It has been on my bucket list for the longest time and I have just been looking for the right opportunity. I do love their beaches and cliffs but this is the first time I have actually realised that there’s more to Cyprus than just the gorgeous waters. Profitis church looks so amazing, your pictures are surreal. I am inspired!
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