Our road trip from Reykjavík to the Westfjords – day 3.

Usually when I’m away, a day or two before I’m due to head home, I get sort of sad that the trip is coming to an end. It’s a dull, depressing feeling, which tends to hit hardest when I’ve had an absolutely amazing time. To me, going back to “9 to 5 normality” after a few days, a week, a fortnight exploring somewhere new is like an adult version of going back to school in September after six weeks off during the summer.

At the end of day 2 of our Westfjords road trip, that feeling started to creep up on me. Björn and I had had so much fun exploring this beautiful part of Iceland – we’d visited some of the most remote villages in the region, driven through different landscapes, relaxed in natural hot springs and learnt about “interesting” local legends. I didn’t want to check out of our cosy little room at Hotel Ljósaland, because that would mean the adventure was coming to an end.

Except it wasn’t the end, not quite anyway. We still had the drive back to Reykjavík, for which Björn decided we’d take the longer, scenic route, so we could see some sights that we hadn’t on the first day of our road trip. The sunshine made the whole day so much nicer too (especially when I found out there was torrential rain back home). So here’s what we got up to on our way back from the Westfjords…

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A quick stop for breakfast in Búðardalur.

Though not usually a breakfast eater at home, when I’m on holiday or travelling I do sometimes grab something in the morning, even if it’s just a coffee. Knowing that we’d be on the road for a little while before we’d have the chance to eat and drink again, Björn suggested we stop at the supermarket in Búðardalur to get some pastries and drinks. It was en route anyway, so made sense.

But what did I fancy? I wasn’t particularly hungry, so though not knowing what was in it (other than strawberries and bananas, obviously), I picked up a carton of something from the fridge, hoping it was some sort of milkshake:

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It was kind of like a thin, drinkable yogurt. Very tasty. If you’re ever in Iceland and fancy trying something new, I recommend this (though after I’d downed it, Björn did tell me it’s what body builders drink to bulk up).

While Björn was queuing to pay for our sustenance, I had a nosy around the shop. As the only store for miles, it sold pretty much everything. From coal and fire logs to utensils and pots and pans, I couldn’t believe there were so many things in just one small shop. There was a whole area of the store with floor-to-ceiling shelves stuffed with balls of wool.

Though I saw Icelandic horses on day 1 of our road trip, I’ve still not seen any of the country’s famous sheep. But I’ve read about them and how hardy they are. With the isolation that comes with living on an island, the Icelandic sheep is one of the purest breeds of sheep in the world, with a strong immune system and thick fleece, according to my guidebook.

Their fleece is “dual-coated” with internal and external layers. In Icelandic, the long external coat is called “tog” and the fine internal coat “þel”. When sheered and separated, the two coats are used for different woolen products. The external fibres are long, shiny, durable and waterproof, while the internal ones are delicate, soft and insulating, so give good protection against the harsh Icelandic weather. Once turned into balls of wool, both are used to make the beautiful jumpers I kept seeing.

I would have loved to have bought some wool back for my mum, as she’s a big knitter and crocheter (is that even a word?), but much like everything else on the island, wool was super expensive.

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Driving through the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Once back in the car, Björn turned on the sat nav and we headed off, taking the “scenic route”. And scenic it was: we drove part way through the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Icelanders often say the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is the only part of this beautiful country that lets you see all of the island’s unique natural elements in close proximity to each other. In other words, Snæfellsnes has everything from vast lava fields, sparkling blue fjords, tall ice-capped volcanoes, glistening glaciers, black (and white) sand beaches and hazardous, jutting sea cliffs along the coastline. The area is crowned by the mighty Snæfellsjökull, which you may remember from French author Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth.

Unfortunately we didn’t go to the volcano, as we only had a few hours to get back to Reykjavík (Björn had to submit a university paper). But I’d love to head back to Snæfellsnes one day. The landscapes were breathtaking, even if only viewing them through the car window.

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Coffee at Narfeyrarstofa, Stykkishólmur.

About half way back to Reykjavík we made a pit stop in Stykkishólmur. With a population of about 1,100 people, it’s the largest town in the area, built up around a natural harbour tipped by a basalt islet. It’s a picturesque place with a laid-back attitude and a sprinkling of colourful buildings from the late 19th Century. Cute, compact and very clean, Stykkishólmur was definitely one of my favourite places we visited on our Westfjords road trip. It also featured in the Ben Stiller film The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, which I watched for the first time on my flight home from the Dominican Republic last October. Little did I know that six months later I’d be at one of the filming locations.

Once parked, we popped into Narfeyrarstofa for some much-needed caffeine. Located by the Breiðafjörður Bay in the oldest part of Stykkishólmur, I was surprised to read that he restaurant had only been open since 2000, as the colonial style exterior looked quite old-fashioned.

Inside the decor was that traditional-yet-modern Nordic style, with sheepskin rugs thrown over benches, and wood panelling contrasting against clean white walls. The menu was eclectic, with lots of fresh fish and seafood on offer, as well as some Asian-style dishes. While we didn’t order food ourselves, the busy restaurant was filled with hungry diners munching their way through some tasty looking dishes.

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A drive around Stykkishólmur harbour.

Both the council and the inhabitants of Stykkishólmur are exceptionally environmentally conscious, and along with the four other municipalities on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Stykkishólmur was the first community in Europe to get the EarthCheck environmental certification (read this interview with Lína Björg Tryggvadóttir, Project Manager for EarthCheck to find out more). This means Stykkishólmur operates in the most eco-friendly way possible, continually measuring various environmental indicators.

The town was also the first municipality in Iceland to start fully sorting its waste, the first town to become plastic bag free, as well as the first town in Iceland to receive the prestigious Blue Flag eco-label for its harbour. Oh, and it’s been an European Destination of Excellence (EDEN) since 2011. So all in all, Stykkishólmur is a pretty great place to be.

Speaking of the harbour, look how cute it is? The water was clear and calm; I could have stayed and watched the boats for hours had we not been in a rush to get back to Reykjavík.

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A stop at Stykkishólmur church.

As soon as we entered the town of Stykkishólmur I immediately spied what I originally thought was some kind of mast for a ship moored up by the seafront. But as we drove through the town and I got a better view, I realised it was some kind of concrete structure. “What’s that big thing sticking up over there?”, I asked Björn. “Where, what thing?” I pointed at the white ship-like shape poking over the rooftops of houses, and following my finger, Björn replied: “That’s just a church. Sometimes they have concerts in there though”.

The church in Stykkishólmur is definitely an interesting building to look at. With it’s brilliant white walls and elegant architectural style, Stykkishólmskirkja, as it’s called in Iceland, is one of the most beautiful churches I’ve ever seen. From the outside at least anyway, as we didn’t have time to go inside (plus it was Easter Saturday, so it might not really have been appropriate to have gone marching in, mobile in hand, snapping away).

Located right by the sea, this unique building was inaugurated on 6th May 1990. It was designed by the Icelandic architect Jón Haraldsson, and the altarpiece was painted by Icelandic painter Kristín Gunnlaugsdóttir. The altarpiece shows Mary carrying the child Jesus, though I’ll have to take my guidebook’s word for that. The guidebook also said the church is renowned for its fine acoustics, and often plays host to musical events. Summer recitals are conducted by The Friends of the Arts Society Stykkishólmrkirkja every summer. Maybe one day, if I visit Iceland again, I’ll head back to see inside and test out the acoustics myself…

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*****

Once back on the main road out of Stykkishólmur, we headed for home (or rather, Björn’s apartment). As I mentioned, I was a little upset that our mini adventure in the Westfjords had come to an end. But as I still had a couple of days in Reykjavík before flying back to London, the blow was softened somewhat. Plus Björn had hinted about visiting me in the UK, and my girlfriends and I had begun planning a summer holiday.

With more trips on the horizon, I was never going to stay down for long…

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103 thoughts on “Our road trip from Reykjavík to the Westfjords – day 3.”

  1. I have not been to Iceland but my dad who was much of a traveller had been there once for a trip. The yogurt you mentioned he told me about it and he also clicked many many pictures of Iceland which I have. It’s a beautiful place indeed. I really hope you have enjoyed your stay.

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  5. The pictures are absolutely gorgeous ! What we loved most about your post is how almost everything we read about has a picture to help us get a clear view.

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  6. Iceland is top of my bucketlist but the kids seem to win wit holiday choices everytime – I will get there this year, it looks stunning

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  9. It looks like you are having the lovliest time in Iceland. The pictures are absolutely stunning it is such a visually gorgeous place

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  12. Heh, Landscapes seem to be so close, you don’t need to go far away from the city to capture beauty. Would love to get there with my camera and photograph life, with all the nature on the background.

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  13. Oh, I know that ‘going home’ feeling you mean. My husband always looks forward to going home but I get that empty feeling that I don’t want the trip to end. Your trip looked amazing. Thanks for all the detail. And that yarn shop….wow. I have Icelandic socks that my Mom buys for me and my daughter and they are amazing.

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  18. I know the exact feeling you’re referring to, the one you get when the trip is about to end and you’ve to return to the routine of a full-time job. But I am really glad that you got a beautiful day and great weather on your last day, I guess that helped take that feeling away a little bit, no? And good choice to take a different scenic route, spices up the last day rather than going back the same route, at least you got to see something new! The colourful wool looks so amazing and I can imagine it must be quite warm. I don’t knit but if I knew somebody who did, I’d get some of that wool and ask them to whip up something colourful and warm for me. Iceland is so gorgeous, I cannot wait to go there.

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  19. Ur blog bright back our memories of Iceland
    The most beautiful country in the world .. there is so much to do even around Reykjavik.. will refer ur guide to my friend who is planning a trip in June to Iceland if that’s ok?

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  20. I have wanted to go to Iceland for the longest time and know friends who have and say that it is a little expensive, so I need to save up!!
    The photographs you have posted are stunning. The colours are so fresh and bright and it just makes me want to go even more.
    It seems like a Country that is so unspoilt. I will get there one day!

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  22. I went to Iceland a few years ago, and absolutely LOVED IT!! We spent 7 or 8 days there, and visited many of the same places you did :). I have been meaning to chronicle my journey there, and after reading a few posts about Iceland, you have inspired me to finally do it. Looks like you had a great time!!

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  23. I can relate to the feeling when a holiday comes to an end! Getting back to the usual routine of 9 to 5 looks so tough! But its great that you had such a wonderful trip. The landscape looks amazing!

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  30. I have read three posts about Iceland in just today. This has me dreaming of a possible vacation soon, I hope to get out somewhere soon, but since I’m expecting a baby any day now I guess my vacation plans have to wait for a while. Loved your post with all the gorgeous pictures and the information in it. Thanks for sharing! 🙂

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  31. I have never been in that place but it looks like a nice place to visit and exploring its beautiful places and tasting their food is such a great experience and adventure for me. I hope to be in this place someday in my life!

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  36. Iceland has always fascinated me. It looks like a really idyllic place to visit! The views are fantastic. Oh and the church is beautiful! I’d love to see the inside of it too!

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  38. What a lovely post. The 2nd post i’ve read about Iceland! I think it is a MUST-SEE country, no doubt about that. You got to see so many beautiful places and the church looked lovely. Sorry you couldn’t by wool for your mum!

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  43. Iceland is such a gorgeous country that has been added to my travel list recently. Thanks for sharing all the information, I’m sure all of us who plan on visiting Iceland will find it very helpful. That yogurt drink sounds delish!

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  44. I do not go out for a road trip and never visited Iceland, Believe me, now I am excited about a road trip and want to explore wonderful Iceland. You enjoyed a lot on your trip and it was a great adventure. You capture some wonderful views of your trip, All the information and guideline will help all the traveler for best traveling experience in Iceland. I especially love the sea view of Stykkishólmur. Most of the people make their living from fishing and tourism. I think my next trip will be here.

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  45. How magical does the route from Reyjavik to Westfjords look? It’s like something out of a fairytale isn’t it? Also I was going to say that even though Iceland is so expensive (who knew that wool would be so pricey- but I guess that is the price you pay for Icelandic sheep) its nice that you still had a good time and that protein milkshake does sound tasty. I know Iceland is not really famed for being veggie friendly but did you come across any vegetarian restaurants on your Icelandic travels?

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  46. The scenery looks amazing! Did you find that it was difficult to navigate the roads in a different country? I am thinking of taking a road trip in Colombia, but my main concern is running into mechanical issues and not knowing what to do!

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    1. Navigating the roads in Iceland wasn’t difficult – there is only one main road that goes around the whole island, and the motorway is calm and the traffic easy. From my experience in Colombia, I would not advise on a road trip there! LOL x

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  47. Wow! Iceland seems like an exceptional destination for a road trip. I wasn’t aware of the beauty of Reykjavík but your pictures were a real eye-opener. When’s the best time of the year to explore Iceland?

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  48. Your photos of Reykjavik is simply stunning, i love how blue the sky is. Skyr protein yoghurt is a huge thing in Iceland and I think its now catching on in the UK too.

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    1. Actually, there isn’t much by the way of public transport in Iceland – no trains and the buses are pretty limited. Car is the best way to get around, but if you don’t drive or aren’t with someone who does, I think your only other option would be to go with a tour company. This would mean that your itinerary would be quite strict though, so you wouldn’t have the freedom you do with a self-planned road trip x

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  54. I have never been to Iceland but I feel like I learned so much from your post! What a beautiful place, I especially loved the 1990 building! Also I agree with you, it’s always so tough to go back to 9 to 5 routine after coming from such an amazing trip!

    Wonderful post and look forward to reading more!
    Xo,
    Amira at aselfguru.com

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